The Rolex Submariner Date 16800, particularly those with COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises) markings, represents the pinnacle of vintage Submariner desirability. These watches, often referred to as "COMEX" Submariners, are highly sought-after by collectors for their rarity, historical significance, and impeccable craftsmanship. The recent market listings, showcasing a 1985 New Old Stock (NOS) complete set for $56,065 and a 1984 example for $11,760, highlight the significant price disparity driven by condition, provenance, and the elusive "COMEX" connection. This article will delve into the nuances of the Rolex Submariner Date 16800, focusing on the COMEX variations and the factors influencing their astronomical value.
The Rolex Submariner Date 16800: A Foundation of Excellence
Before examining the COMEX variants, it's crucial to understand the 16800 itself. Introduced in the early 1980s, the 16800 represented a significant evolution in the Submariner line. It marked the transition from the acrylic crystal of its predecessors to the more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a feature that significantly enhanced durability and legibility. The movement, the calibre 3035, offered improved accuracy and reliability compared to its earlier counterparts. The 16800 also featured a redesigned case, with subtle but noticeable differences in the lugs and crown guards, contributing to its distinctive aesthetic. The dial variations are numerous, adding another layer of complexity for collectors, ranging from different marker styles and hand configurations to variations in the text and date window placement. This inherent variability in details makes each 16800 a unique piece of horological history.
The COMEX Connection: A Legacy of Deep-Sea Exploration
The true allure of certain 16800 Submariners lies in their association with COMEX, a French commercial diving company renowned for its pioneering work in saturation diving. COMEX collaborated with Rolex, supplying them with Submariners for use in their demanding deep-sea operations. These watches were subjected to extreme conditions, including immense pressure, fluctuating temperatures, and prolonged exposure to saltwater. The partnership underscored Rolex's commitment to producing robust and reliable timepieces capable of withstanding the harshest environments.
The COMEX Submariners are distinguished by several key features that differentiate them from standard 16800s. While there isn't a single, universally agreed-upon definitive list of features that make a 16800 a true COMEX watch, several traits are strongly indicative:
* Helium Escape Valve: The most prominent feature is the helium escape valve, positioned at 9 o'clock on the case. This valve allowed helium gas, used in saturation diving, to escape during decompression, preventing the crystal from imploding. This valve is not always present on all watches associated with COMEX, leading to some ambiguity about what constitutes a genuine "COMEX" watch. Many believe a helium escape valve is the minimum requirement.
* Dial Markings: Some, but not all, COMEX watches feature subtle markings on the dial, though these are often difficult to authenticate and can be subject to forgery.
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